Taig
Taig Lathe Add
There are some clamping moves that are repeated many times while making a series of parts on the Taig Lathe. Taig uses hex head 10-32 screws to lock the carriage gib and also clamp the tailstock and sliding center bar. It becomes a chore after a while picking up the correct hex wrench and fitting it to the screw head to make adjustments.
I have seen many examples where micro-lathe owners make a set of SS ball handle 10-32 screws and bend them about 80 degrees to act like a L handle. They look fabulous but you have to get the bend in the correct position.
What I show here are some store bought adjustable 10-32 threaded handles. They do the same job as the homemade handles except the handle position is adjustable. That’s much better in my book. Not quite as pretty as the homemade but a little more functional.
I purchased these at McMaster-Carr, Part Numbers 6271K11, 6271K19 and 6271K65. Pick the size you want. I bought all three sizes. I used the 9/16 length on the carriage. This is not a through hole so it shouldn’t bottom against the body. It works fine as is but could be a bit shorter. (grind down)
New Visitor Posted in THMS
I sold a Taig Micro-Lathe to Señor Alejandro Oliva Calzado in Madrid Spain. He was going to make some custom mods and set it up his own way. I asked Alejandro to send me a picture when he was done. Sure enough he did. That’s one of them here in this post. Go see the others here: THMS Link. Well done Alejandro!
Taig Wrench CNC
I shot a video this weekend showing a Taig spindle wrench being milled on my Taig CNC mill.
For best viewing go to YouTube and view in HD full screen 720p. WOW! I used my Sony Alpha NEX-5 With it’s HD wide screen video ability. The raw full HD footage is spectacular but I had to edit down to 720P for YouTube. Here it is much less than that (around 360p). I don’t like the handheld movement and focus changes but it was easier than working around the tripod. I need to use the tripod… 🙂
Here are some stills. I had enough aluminum to make 9 wrenches on this run.
This wrench was actually one of my first projects with the Taig mill many years ago. I was using different software and controller but the results are the same. I also put a label on the handles of the original wrenches. I may do something similar on these new ones.
http://thehobbyistmachineshop.com/cms/projects/taig-wrench-set
This size wrench is just the right size and the soft aluminum (compared to steel) prevents damage to the spindle and collet nut. My originals show a little wear but are still going strong.
Enjoy the video for now!
Update 5/3/15
Today I just cut 6 more of these wrenches. I checked out the proper feeds and speeds in CNC Cookbook GWizzard and got each cut time down to 6 minutes, 40 seconds. Now running 19 IPM feed at 10600 RPM, plunge 10 IPM and DOC is .0377 or seven round trips. Big chips and a beautiful cut.
Getting My Head on Straight
I had to make another Taig to PNJ (HB2) adapter plate. So I removed the Taig spindle from my HB2 to make a close examination of the adapter plate I had made for myself. The spindle and motor are very easy to adjust in height or remove from the HB2. There is one clamping screw that holds the Taig ER16 spindle on the black clamping plate. No worry, it is a very secure clamp.
Of course it is always a good idea to check spindle alignment after making major movements and what I had also done was loosened the adapter from the Z axis plate. That meant I would have to double check the shims I used to remove a front to back tilt. The shims can be seen in the detail picture.
On a machine like this, when installed in an unconditioned garage shop, and some of the material it is made with is wood, I don’t believe extreme tramming of the head to (say…) +/- 0.001 across the travel is necessary. Routing wood signs and making Lithophanes isn’t extreme machining. We do want to be perpendicular to the table, have consistent Z height, and have a very rigid machine. But you can be as fussy as you please if you want. I’m good with this.
I am not sure where the offset creating the need for the shims was created. If the Z axis guides are not perfectly vertical, then a full stroke Z would be offset in the Y axis. This type machine (at least mine) is never used for that kind of cut so I am not concerned about any small offset that may be created. I am more interested in cutting a flat X/Y area flat.
One trick I do employ… Continue reading
CNC 4th Axis Update
The Taig CNC mill is closer to having its 4th axis operational. All that is really needed is to get the wiring completed. The tail post is not mounted where seen in the pictures. I was making adjustments to the height. You can see it is easily adjustable.
I will bolt down the tail post once I have an application where I need to use it. I now have the shims I need so a couple of bolts in the base and I’m in business.
When I have it running I’ll post a SHORT video to prove it works, Ha! There is nothing more boring than watching 10 to 20 seconds of a CNC axis moving around doing nothing.